I didn’t think I liked gin. But that was before I sampled some at a farm shop last May. I had heard of Silent Pool, a new local distiller in Surrey, so I put my previous prejudice aside to give this one a try. I was bowled over; the gin was aromatic and full of flavour notes: lavender, juniper, coriander, chamomile, rose and so many more. It’s also drinkable, straight, in sips. Meeting James Shelbourne, Silent Pool’s sales manager, at Milford farmers’ market convinced me to find out more.

When Ian McCulloch, founder of Silent Pool and former commercial director at ITV decided to start a distillery producing craft gin in 2013 he can’t possibly have foreseen its success. With a commercial background, he understood that branding and product were of equal importance and worked hard from the outset on both.

For Ian, his journey started by searching for a great distiller, a path that took him to Herriot Watt University in Edinburgh where the only MSc in Brewing and Distilling in the world is available, as might be expected from the home of whisky. The stars were clearly in his favour, as whilst he was there he was introduced to Cory Mason, a graduate of the course undertaking research. From their first meeting, Cory and Ian decided to work together and enlisted a current student, Tom Hutchings, who for his dissertation then worked on gin botanicals (flavour enhancers) helping to put together a blueprint for what is now an award-winning gin. Remarkably, this gin has achieved the sales in months that most new brands take years to reach.

Cory Mason must be one of the coolest guys I have met in a while. A native Californian, he had been running art and music venues in New York and is a person who stands out. Tall in stature, with a trademark moustache, twisted at the ends and fixed with glue, perfect portrait material, he has dabbled in restaurant ownership, cocktail mixology and bootleg distilling. Initially, the trio did not have premises or distillery. So, while Cory and Tom started to develop the gin (a complicated process for those wishing to be top of the game), Ian headed back to Surrey to find premises.

Hearing of a building available on the Albury Estate owned by the Duke of Northumberland, Ian, a Surrey Hills’ resident, took Cory and Tom to visit. They were enchanted by the name Silent Pool, which locals know as a beauty spot for a walk in the summer months. When there is good rainfall and the pools are full they have a lovely blue hue. The trio really started to get excited when they were told there was an underground source of artisanal spring water fed from deep in the chalk downs. Cory and Tom also found wild chamomile growing on the site which they immediately added to the gin’s recipe.

The site also carries a legend. Apparently a woodcutter’s daughter was bathing in the pool when a nobleman on a horse spotted her. Concerned by his advances she moved further into the centre of the pool, but he followed her and she drowned. When her father found her body he also recovered the horseman’s hat which had dropped into the water. Embroidered on it was the crest of Prince John. Ever since locals have talked of eeriness around the ponds. This intoxicating story, the fabulous location and name sealed the deal ending in an easy decision to build the distillery at Silent Pool. Today the distillery at the back opens up onto a deck overlooking the pool where the team keep a BBQ to cook lunch.

The distiller itself is remarkable too. Built in Holstein in southern Germany from copper it was brought to the UK in parts and built on site. Cory says it’s not the Rolls Royce of distillers, but the end results are better as the process can be more flexible. Without getting too academic here, Silent Pool gin combines infusion and vapour techniques for building its unique taste. Many gins use either technique, but rarely both.

The distiller is powered by a reclaimed and renovated 1970s’ Barford Invicta Major wood burning stove which sits in the woodshed next to the distillery. Fuel comes from a sustainable source on the estate. Cory and Tom’s first job in the morning is to chop wood and fire up the stove. The wood, Cory says, affects the temperature rise in the distiller and because it varies each batch of gin is slightly different. This, he says, is a handmade product in every way; there are no computers or digital timers, just skill. Cory and Tom love their job: they feel it gives them a chance to perform magic with a perfect mix of science, art and craft.

Silent Pool gin took a year to develop and by the time Cory and Tom had completed their thirty fifth test run, Ian decided it was time to stop experimenting and go to launch. They used a designer to come up with the bottle design and decided on blue glass to represent summer water at the pool. The bottle is distinctive, standing out from competitors, which is essential in a crowded marketplace.

By default of its location, Silent Pool has a fantastic brand story and name too. Exceeding sales by 1000% in its first year, Silent Pool gin is a core product sold internationally (even in China), but the creativity doesn’t stop there. Cory and Tom also produce Albury Limited Release gin which is made in small batches, along with Limited Release gin cordials. The fruit cordials are only made when local fresh fruit such as strawberries and blackberries are in season. Fruit is macerated in gin and the pulp discarded once the juice has been extracted.

In addition, Albury Limited Release currently has plum and apricot eau de vies available (clear fruit brandy), again, small batch and seasonal. Because all skills are in-house and Silent Pool has its own distiller, this company can diversify easily and respond to seasonality.

In the future, Silent Pool is also contemplating adding vodka and whisky to the repertoire, but it was pointed out that gin was better to start with as it’s ready to drink immediately, whereas whisky has to mature.

In addition to creating a product range, Silent Pool has recently worked with Raymond Blanc to create a gin to celebrate the twenty-first anniversary of the Eurostar. For a new brand to gain such credence in its first year is testimony to the tight professional team behind the impressive creative force. It’s clear with the founding partners’ skill mix and the ability of their team, Silent Pool is a company to watch. I can’t wait to see what it will produce next.

Eton mess with blackberry gin

This has to be the easiest emergency dessert to make providing the right ingredients are to hand. It’s fast, effective and difficult not to love. Fruit infused gins are lovely for providing an alcoholic kick to an otherwise innocent classic. The gin cordials from Silent Pool are perfect here.

Makes four large or six medium dessert glasses
500 grams mixed berries, hulled and chopped
120ml of blackberry, damson or strawberry gin or cordial
Two teaspoons vanilla sugar
250ml whipping cream
250ml double cream
Three to four small meringue nests (home or ready-made), lightly crushed.
A few berries and fresh thyme to decorate

Method

• Put the berries into a mixing bowl. Pour over 120ml of flavoured gin and stir in the sugar. I used blackberry, but damson or strawberry would also work well here. Leave the berries to macerate whilst preparing the cream.
• Pour the whipping and double cream into a mixing bowl and whisk until it visibly thickens. A soft whip is required here so that the meringue will easily fold in. Fold the crushed meringue into the cream.
• Lay out glasses or a large serving dish. At this stage, it is possible to combine the fruit mixture with the cream, but I layered mine. It’s purely personal, but I like the look of the layers. Start with a fruit layer followed by the meringue cream, spooning the gin in with each layer. Finish with meringue cream and decorate with a few berries and a sprig of thyme. Can be made a few hours or a day ahead. Refrigerate until required.

Shirlee Posner

essence info

Silent Pool’s current product range is available directly at the distillery or from the online shop or suppliers nationwide.
Check the website for stockists. For those interested in meeting the team and seeing gin being made, which I highly recommend, why not buy a distillery tour: details on the Silent Pool website. It would make a great Christmas gift.
Silent Pool Distillers Shere Road, Albury, Surrey GU5 9BW
Telephone: 01483 229136
Websites: www.silentpooldistillers.com and www.eatsurrey.co