In a recent blind tasting of wines carried out using méthode Champenoise, an English sparkling wine won overall. This is a dream come true for English wine producers who are now winning awards in the major leagues.
In Surrey and the south east, we have several brilliant producers whose wines are faring well in this highly competitive market. English wines are now seen as being as attractive additions to wine lists on top-notch restaurant menus, including those with a Michelin star or two – Drakes in Ripley, for example.

A new independent retail outlet Hawkins Brothers opened in Milford selling exclusively English wines. Former publicans Simon and James decided to dedicate their retail business to this niche market and so far they have introduced an astonishing range of wines into their shop. With regular tastings and ‘meet the producer’ events most weekends, the brothers are true champions for local producers and a fountain of wine knowledge for their growing following of English wine converts, including me. The delicious wines of the Albury Estate, Denbies, Exton Park, Hush Heath, Greyfriars and Gusbourne, all based in south east England, can be found in their shop.
To celebrate English Wine Week recently, I went to see owners Mike and Hilary Wagstaff to record their story. Mike trained as a civil engineer and his wife Hilary as a solicitor. Working in the oil industry, Mike spent a lot of his time managing projects in the north of Scotland. One of his university tutors (a geologist) from Imperial College published a book entitled ‘The Winelands of England’, the author, Dick Selly used his incredible knowledge of geology to identify soil that lent itself to the art of viticulture. In 1991 he was instrumental in the development of the Denbies Wine Estate on the North Downs, encouraging the planting of 260 acres of grapevines to create the largest English vineyard. His book so inspired his former student that when Mike found himself jobless in 2009 he decided to change careers.

Mike knew of Greyfriars Vineyard which had been planted by its rather eccentric owners in 1989. They wanted to prove that if grapes of a high enough quality could be grown in England, then good wine would result. After 22 years they wanted to retire, so they put the property on the market. Mike and his wife immediately made an offer. They knew they could take the vineyard from a hobby winery to a commercially viable enterprise. That was five and half years ago, and Mike says it’s been a steep learning curve with a few hiccups along the way, but their business is a real success story.

Choosing the style of wine to make was easy as out of around five million bottles of wine produced in England, a high percentage (75%) is sparkling, not still. This is due to the English weather. Cooler climates mean a slower, longer ripening period for grapes. In turn, grapes which ripen slowly and are then harvested in late September to early October have a far more complex flavour profile than grapes grown in hotter climates that ripen
faster. This means the ripening period can be two to three weeks longer than grapes grown in the Champagne district. So, whilst the only sparkling wine that can be called Champagne must be grown in a specific region in France, wine makers can use the Champagne production method and compete in this market. They just can’t call the resulting wine Champagne.

In order to expand their wine yields, Mike and Hilary had to plant additional vines early on. The original 1,500 vines, whilst established, simply didn’t produce enough grapes, so the couple planted an additional 75,000 vines. Mike and his team worked flat out knowing it would take at least two years for them to establish before producing the quality and quantity of fruits required.

They hammered in 12,000 metal posts and used over 400 km of metal wire to support their new plants. The care and attention doesn’t stop there and in cold spring conditions when a harsh frost is predicted the team is on red alert. Luckily, this year temperatures did not go below the critical -2 degrees but it was, Mike says, a close call!

Chicken liver and Porcini mushroom paté

If I am serving really good wine, I like to offer something interesting with it. I love paté, but the shop bought varieties are often high in saturated fat. Making it at home gives control over ingredients, plus it’s easy to make. Serve with some lovely sourdough bread or artisan crackers and a relish such as caramelised red onion.

Ingredients (serves 6–8 as a starter)
10g dried Porcini mushrooms
Four tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
100g butter
One large white onion, peeled and chopped
Four cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
400g free range or organic chicken livers, washed and trimmed
One dessertspoon fresh Rosemary, finely chopped (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper (I use smoked Maldon sea salt)
Extra butter to create a seal

Method
• Put the Porcini mushrooms in a cup and pour just enough boiling water over them to cover – press down with a tablespoon so they stay under water.
• Heat the oil and butter in a heavy bottom pan with a lid and add the onions and garlic. Sweat for five minutes with the lid on the pan, making sure the ingredients don’t brown. Now add the livers and cook for a further five minutes, raising the temperature if needed.
• Add the Rosemary and mushrooms, plus seasoning, and simmer with lid on for seven to eight minutes.
• Remove from the heat and cool for a few minutes.
• Place the liver mixture in a food processor and pulse till smooth. Adjust seasoning and spoon mixture into a serving dish or ramekins.
• Smooth the top and leave to cool for 20 minutes.
• Top with melted butter to seal, or decorate with fresh herbs, then place in the refrigerator to chill for at least three hours before serving.
This paté will keep in the refrigerator for up to five days.

Picking season for grapes is October at Greyfriars, picked by hand to maintain quality. Once picked, grapes are pressed and the resulting juice allowed to settle overnight. The juice is transferred to oak barrels (barriques). Greyfriars tends to produce around 27 wines which will then be blended (by grape variety) before bottling after Christmas. In order to cope with growing production levels, an underground chalk lined cave has been built to mature the wine. This stabilises temperature and helps maintain drinking quality once matured.

With growing sales, media attention and higher stock levels Greyfriars has started to gain a stronghold in the English wine market. The winery currently sells four wines (three sparkling and one still).

The still wine is a 2014 Pinot Gris, which won a bronze award from the UK Vineyards Association. Of the sparkling wines, Greyfriars currently has three on offer: a rosé (100% Pinot Noir) and two whites. Its 2013 Blanc de Blanc is 100% Chardonnay and 2012 Sparkling Fume from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. All fermented on oak barriques for six months before bottling, they take on flavour notes from the wood which adds a fine complexity to their final taste profile.

Greyfriars is one example of a small independent wine maker producing exceptional wines. I highly recommend trying some of these local wines next time something special is required for a celebration. They are local, sustainable and support the local economy.

To try before buying, visit the Hawkins Brothers in Milford for tastings and ‘meet the producer’ events, all of which are posted on the retailer’s social media pages and website.

Shirlee Posner

essence info

Greyfriars Vineyard, The Hog’s Back, Puttenham, Surrey GU3 1AG
Telephone: 01483 813712
Email: info@greyfriarsvineyard.co.uk
Website: www.greyfriarsvineyard.co.uk

Hawkins Bros. Fine English Wines
The Courtyard, Secrett’s Farm Shop, Chapel Lane, Milford, Godalming, Surrey GU8 5HU
Website: www.hawkinsbros.co.uk

Website: www.eatsurrey.co