TRAVEL
Surrey’s Premier Lifestyle Magazine
Luxe on the slopes
Hanna Lindon visits Meribel to experience the ultimate in winter opulence and shares her pick of the best luxury ski destinations from around the world.
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There’s not much to beat relaxing in a hot tub with a glass of bubbly after a hard day on the slopes, luxuriating in the warm glow brought on by the combination of endorphins and Champagne. My skiing holidays usually involve squeezing into a basic chalet with a noisy group of friends, but for once my husband Guy and I had decided to swap solidarity for luxury.
We were staying at the five star Le Kaila Hotel (www.lekaila.com) where beds are the size of boats and many of the rooms are complete with their own personal Jacuzzi and steam room. The hotel has a peaceful spa, a second-floor heated pool with superb views out onto the slopes and a fitness centre just in case you can’t work up enough of a sweat through skiing. Our stay so far had been accompanied by every conceivable form of luxury – and we were feeling on top of the world.
Skiing is, arguably, an upmarket activity in itself. Lift passes are pricey, flights are expensive during the winter season and budget accommodation is increasingly hard to find in the best resorts. Yes, it’s possible to keep costs slightly less extortionate if you’re happy to make some major compromises, but for those prepared to splash out, it’s far more fun to enjoy the full five star experience.
For our no-holds-barred winter holiday destination we had chosen Meribel, an impossibly quaint collection of three neighbouring villages in the Three Valleys ski area with a reputation for opulence that almost rivals that of nearby Courcheval.
It attracts an A-list crowd, with the Middletons, Beckhams, actress Emma Watson and pop star Natalie Imbruglia all holidaying here. As well as a scattering of luxe hotels, the resort boasts plenty of high-class private chalets and its après ski scene is top-notch for those who like the idea of partying with the jet set.
But it isn’t just the gilded trappings that make Meribel such a sought-after winter destination. The skiing is world beating with 150 kilometres of pistes on offer, as well as access to a total of over 600 kilometres of skiing in the Three Valleys’ area. For perennial beginners like Guy and I, who enjoy hitting the slopes every winter but never quite manage to push our standard, it’s ideal. The majority of pistes are blue, with only around 25% red and a further 10% green or black, and there are some gentle green slopes at Altiport that lend themselves to family skiing. Experts won’t be disappointed though, thanks to runs like the red Combe Vallon piste from the top of the 2,952-metre Monte du Vallon gondola and the Olympic Face run offering an unrivalled adrenaline rush.
We spent a glorious week exploring the local slopes and rounding each day off with a dip in the heated pool or a slap-up meal. Meribel has more than its fair share of excellent restaurants, including Michelin-starred L’Ekrin at Le Kaila (www.lekaila.com/fr/restaurant-et-bar) and famous names such as Le Plantin (www.leplantin.com) and Le Grand Couer (www.legrandcoeur.com). For those who like the idea of excellent skiing, gourmet eating, luxurious accommodation and privacy then it’s the perfect base for a winter trip. There are, however, some even more opulent options dotted around Europe and North America to consider…
We were staying at the five star Le Kaila Hotel (www.lekaila.com) where beds are the size of boats and many of the rooms are complete with their own personal Jacuzzi and steam room. The hotel has a peaceful spa, a second-floor heated pool with superb views out onto the slopes and a fitness centre just in case you can’t work up enough of a sweat through skiing. Our stay so far had been accompanied by every conceivable form of luxury – and we were feeling on top of the world.
Skiing is, arguably, an upmarket activity in itself. Lift passes are pricey, flights are expensive during the winter season and budget accommodation is increasingly hard to find in the best resorts. Yes, it’s possible to keep costs slightly less extortionate if you’re happy to make some major compromises, but for those prepared to splash out, it’s far more fun to enjoy the full five star experience.
For our no-holds-barred winter holiday destination we had chosen Meribel, an impossibly quaint collection of three neighbouring villages in the Three Valleys ski area with a reputation for opulence that almost rivals that of nearby Courcheval.
It attracts an A-list crowd, with the Middletons, Beckhams, actress Emma Watson and pop star Natalie Imbruglia all holidaying here. As well as a scattering of luxe hotels, the resort boasts plenty of high-class private chalets and its après ski scene is top-notch for those who like the idea of partying with the jet set.
But it isn’t just the gilded trappings that make Meribel such a sought-after winter destination. The skiing is world beating with 150 kilometres of pistes on offer, as well as access to a total of over 600 kilometres of skiing in the Three Valleys’ area. For perennial beginners like Guy and I, who enjoy hitting the slopes every winter but never quite manage to push our standard, it’s ideal. The majority of pistes are blue, with only around 25% red and a further 10% green or black, and there are some gentle green slopes at Altiport that lend themselves to family skiing. Experts won’t be disappointed though, thanks to runs like the red Combe Vallon piste from the top of the 2,952-metre Monte du Vallon gondola and the Olympic Face run offering an unrivalled adrenaline rush.
We spent a glorious week exploring the local slopes and rounding each day off with a dip in the heated pool or a slap-up meal. Meribel has more than its fair share of excellent restaurants, including Michelin-starred L’Ekrin at Le Kaila (www.lekaila.com/fr/restaurant-et-bar) and famous names such as Le Plantin (www.leplantin.com) and Le Grand Couer (www.legrandcoeur.com). For those who like the idea of excellent skiing, gourmet eating, luxurious accommodation and privacy then it’s the perfect base for a winter trip. There are, however, some even more opulent options dotted around Europe and North America to consider…
Courchevel
Meribel’s near neighbour and the most famously glitzy resort in France, Courchevel is divided into four separate villages. The one to head for, if all-out luxury is the aim, is Courchevel 1850: the largest, highest and most prestigious of the settlements, where seriously swanky hotels rub shoulder with sprawling chalets and expensive boutique shops. There are more plush hotels here than in any French city other than Paris. Sixteen have five star status, three with the top ‘Palace’ rating, and there are five restaurants with two Michelin stars apiece so palates will be spoiled for choice. Gondolas head up in three different directions from the village, giving access to the 600 kilometres of pistes offered by the Three Valleys’ ski area, and the slopes back down are almost all accessible to beginners. The après ski scene is unsurprisingly flashy and there are plenty of other activities to indulge in as well, including massages, beauty treatments and helicopter sightseeing tours.
Aspen
It may originally have been founded as a miners’ camp, but Colorado’s classiest ski complex has come a long way since the Silver Boom era. Today it’s a haunt of Hollywood stars and regularly plays host to A-listers such as Bill Murray, Melanie Griffith, Antonio Banderas and Jack Nicholson. The resort actually spans four mountains: Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk and Snowmass. The latter two are more accessible for families and beginners, with Aspen Mountain and Aspen Highlands providing the trickiest skiing in the area. Stay in Aspen town to take advantage of a glittering array of five star hotels, classy restaurants, and notorious nightlife spots including the iconic J-Bar at the Jerome (hoteljerome.aubergeresorts.com). Snowmass caters more for families, but has a similarly upmarket air.
Meribel’s near neighbour and the most famously glitzy resort in France, Courchevel is divided into four separate villages. The one to head for, if all-out luxury is the aim, is Courchevel 1850: the largest, highest and most prestigious of the settlements, where seriously swanky hotels rub shoulder with sprawling chalets and expensive boutique shops. There are more plush hotels here than in any French city other than Paris. Sixteen have five star status, three with the top ‘Palace’ rating, and there are five restaurants with two Michelin stars apiece so palates will be spoiled for choice. Gondolas head up in three different directions from the village, giving access to the 600 kilometres of pistes offered by the Three Valleys’ ski area, and the slopes back down are almost all accessible to beginners. The après ski scene is unsurprisingly flashy and there are plenty of other activities to indulge in as well, including massages, beauty treatments and helicopter sightseeing tours.
Aspen
It may originally have been founded as a miners’ camp, but Colorado’s classiest ski complex has come a long way since the Silver Boom era. Today it’s a haunt of Hollywood stars and regularly plays host to A-listers such as Bill Murray, Melanie Griffith, Antonio Banderas and Jack Nicholson. The resort actually spans four mountains: Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk and Snowmass. The latter two are more accessible for families and beginners, with Aspen Mountain and Aspen Highlands providing the trickiest skiing in the area. Stay in Aspen town to take advantage of a glittering array of five star hotels, classy restaurants, and notorious nightlife spots including the iconic J-Bar at the Jerome (hoteljerome.aubergeresorts.com). Snowmass caters more for families, but has a similarly upmarket air.
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“Skiing is, arguably, an upmarket activity in itself. Lift passes are pricey, flights are expensive during the winter season and budget accommodation is increasingly hard to find in the best resorts. Yes, it’s possible to keep costs slightly less extortionate if you’re happy to make some major compromises, but for those prepared to splash out, it’s far more fun to enjoy the full five star experience.”
Hanna LindonWhistler-Blackcomb
Voted the best ski resort in North America for eight years in a row, Whistler oozes class without being overpoweringly posh. Whistler Village is a picture-perfect little ski town with a wealth of five star accommodation, including the Fairmont Chateau Whistler (www.fairmont.com/whistler), the Four Seasons Resort (www.fourseasons.com/whistler) and Nita Lake Lodge (www.nitalakelodge.com).
Luxury spas and sports centres cater for those who want to hone their figure away from the slopes, and the après ski scene is one of the liveliest and funkiest in Canada. The ski school and guiding services here are top-notch too, and the skiing is virtually unbeatable; think 8,171 acres of pistes, 200 runs and 12 alpine bowls, as well as three glaciers for late season skiing. More intrepid snow junkies will find this is the perfect place to try out heliskiing.
St Moritz
Is this the most exclusive ski resort in the world? It certainly has a famous pedigree: celebrities and royals from around the
globe have been spending their holidays in St Moritz since the mid-1800s. As well as the ace skiing (350 kilometres of pistes divided across four major and six more minor areas) it is also known as being the home of snow polo. This gentlemanly sport began in the resort thirty years ago and is now played internationally, but crowds of more than 12,000 still gather in St Moritz every year to watch teams compete for the immensely prestigious Cartier Trophy.
It will come as no surprise that the après ski scene is achingly upmarket. Enjoy an after-dinner drink at the Kulm Hotel’s Altitude Bar (www.kulm.com/restaurants-bars/) or join a table at Casino St Moritz (www.casinostmoritz.ch) for a chance of spotting famous faces such as Liz Hurley and Ivana Trump.
Voted the best ski resort in North America for eight years in a row, Whistler oozes class without being overpoweringly posh. Whistler Village is a picture-perfect little ski town with a wealth of five star accommodation, including the Fairmont Chateau Whistler (www.fairmont.com/whistler), the Four Seasons Resort (www.fourseasons.com/whistler) and Nita Lake Lodge (www.nitalakelodge.com).
Luxury spas and sports centres cater for those who want to hone their figure away from the slopes, and the après ski scene is one of the liveliest and funkiest in Canada. The ski school and guiding services here are top-notch too, and the skiing is virtually unbeatable; think 8,171 acres of pistes, 200 runs and 12 alpine bowls, as well as three glaciers for late season skiing. More intrepid snow junkies will find this is the perfect place to try out heliskiing.
St Moritz
Is this the most exclusive ski resort in the world? It certainly has a famous pedigree: celebrities and royals from around the
globe have been spending their holidays in St Moritz since the mid-1800s. As well as the ace skiing (350 kilometres of pistes divided across four major and six more minor areas) it is also known as being the home of snow polo. This gentlemanly sport began in the resort thirty years ago and is now played internationally, but crowds of more than 12,000 still gather in St Moritz every year to watch teams compete for the immensely prestigious Cartier Trophy.
It will come as no surprise that the après ski scene is achingly upmarket. Enjoy an after-dinner drink at the Kulm Hotel’s Altitude Bar (www.kulm.com/restaurants-bars/) or join a table at Casino St Moritz (www.casinostmoritz.ch) for a chance of spotting famous faces such as Liz Hurley and Ivana Trump.
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Zermatt
St Moritz isn’t the only Swiss ski resort with a reputation for unadulterated luxe. Zermatt packs an almost equally posh punch, with the most well to do visitors transferring from the airport by helicopter or limousine. The resort boasts some of the most luxurious accommodation in the Alps, including the Chalet Zermatt Peak (www.chaletzermattpeak.com), a private catered residence with its own walk-in wine cellar, three HD cinema areas and wellness centre. It also reputedly has the highest density of gourmet restaurants in the world, with the most renowned dining spots being Zum See (www.chalet-altesse-restaurant-zumsee.ch), Chez Vrony (www.chezvrony.ch) and Cervo Restaurant (www.cervo.ch).
Cortina
Italy’s most chic winter destination is the best-kept secret of the luxury scene: a favourite haunt of Ferrari-driving Italian aristocrats, but woefully overlooked by the rest of Europe. The skiing is high quality, with 36 lifts serving around 175 metres of pistes, but it’s the après scene that makes Cortina so special.
Michelin-starred restaurants such as Tivoli (www.ristorantetivolicortina.it) and El Toula (www.toula.it) share the charming streets with endless upmarket boutiques, and after-hours the fashionable crowd flocks to a range of sophisticated nightclubs and cocktail bars. If young, flush and ready to party, it’s the perfect place to let the hair down.
St Moritz isn’t the only Swiss ski resort with a reputation for unadulterated luxe. Zermatt packs an almost equally posh punch, with the most well to do visitors transferring from the airport by helicopter or limousine. The resort boasts some of the most luxurious accommodation in the Alps, including the Chalet Zermatt Peak (www.chaletzermattpeak.com), a private catered residence with its own walk-in wine cellar, three HD cinema areas and wellness centre. It also reputedly has the highest density of gourmet restaurants in the world, with the most renowned dining spots being Zum See (www.chalet-altesse-restaurant-zumsee.ch), Chez Vrony (www.chezvrony.ch) and Cervo Restaurant (www.cervo.ch).
Cortina
Italy’s most chic winter destination is the best-kept secret of the luxury scene: a favourite haunt of Ferrari-driving Italian aristocrats, but woefully overlooked by the rest of Europe. The skiing is high quality, with 36 lifts serving around 175 metres of pistes, but it’s the après scene that makes Cortina so special.
Michelin-starred restaurants such as Tivoli (www.ristorantetivolicortina.it) and El Toula (www.toula.it) share the charming streets with endless upmarket boutiques, and after-hours the fashionable crowd flocks to a range of sophisticated nightclubs and cocktail bars. If young, flush and ready to party, it’s the perfect place to let the hair down.
Images courtesy of: Aspen Skiing Company, Zermat by Michael Portmann, les3vallees.com, Blake Jorgenson, swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger, Leander Wenger, Dolomiti Superski/U Bernhart.
“Skiing is, arguably, an upmarket activity in itself. Lift passes are pricey, flights are expensive during the winter season and budget accommodation is increasingly hard to find in the best resorts. Yes, it’s possible to keep costs slightly less extortionate if you’re happy to make some major compromises, but for those prepared to splash out, it’s far more fun to enjoy the full five star experience”