ARTISAN
Surrey’s Premier Lifestyle Magazine
Hand stirred in Surrey
Shirlee Posner of Eat Surrey introduces essence readers to gorgeous, thick fruit and vegetable packed jars of preserves from a true cottage industry in Surrey, Jam Packed Preserves.
In the artisan food world there are many different styles of producers. Some who produce from their own kitchens with little or no start up budget or investment, and others who have investors, industrial units and can afford branding and marketing. Some companies of course have a bit of both. I am comfortable with any of these options providing the eating quality and provenance of the products is top notch.
Like a lot of my new connections, my introduction to Jam Packed Preserves came via Twitter. I follow a food consultant and food product guru, Tessa Stuart, who sent me a link to Jam Packed based in Surrey. Tessa has written two best-selling books for wannabe food producers: ‘Packed’ and ‘Flying off the Shelves’ and has worked with top companies such as the Innocent smoothie brand.
I went to visit Sue and Kevin Woodward at the Jam Packed headquarters in Epsom to record their story. I knew Sue and her husband had careers in the NHS where Sue was a lecturer in neuro nursing at Kings College Hospital, London and was also working on a PhD. Kevin worked in operation theatres within the hospital, but poor recovery from surgery meant he was unable to return to this role.
Alongside a very full-on life, they had taken on an allotment eight years ago, inheriting a vigorous bed of autumn fruiting raspberries. Realising they couldn’t possibly consume all the fruit themselves, Sue rang her mum for her jam recipe. After that they turned to blackcurrants and redcurrants, packing as much fruit as they could into each jar of jam made.
Like a lot of my new connections, my introduction to Jam Packed Preserves came via Twitter. I follow a food consultant and food product guru, Tessa Stuart, who sent me a link to Jam Packed based in Surrey. Tessa has written two best-selling books for wannabe food producers: ‘Packed’ and ‘Flying off the Shelves’ and has worked with top companies such as the Innocent smoothie brand.
I went to visit Sue and Kevin Woodward at the Jam Packed headquarters in Epsom to record their story. I knew Sue and her husband had careers in the NHS where Sue was a lecturer in neuro nursing at Kings College Hospital, London and was also working on a PhD. Kevin worked in operation theatres within the hospital, but poor recovery from surgery meant he was unable to return to this role.
Alongside a very full-on life, they had taken on an allotment eight years ago, inheriting a vigorous bed of autumn fruiting raspberries. Realising they couldn’t possibly consume all the fruit themselves, Sue rang her mum for her jam recipe. After that they turned to blackcurrants and redcurrants, packing as much fruit as they could into each jar of jam made.
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It didn’t take long for the jam-making bug to bite and the couple expanded into jellies and chutneys too. They decided to sell surplus stock and their first commercial deal was with a local butcher. He recorded how much he sold and Sue and Kevin received meat from him in return. This is a great example of good, old fashioned bartering. Friends also became regular customers and loved the products so much they encouraged them to take tables at local fundraising events. In fact, Sue and Kevin prefer to attend fundraisers with products rather than farmers’ markets as they can support charities whilst selling.
In January of this year, Sue submitted her PhD, but the couple also became carers for grandchildren and decided to fit the jam business around this, shelving previous careers. So, whilst slowly building up their business over the past few years, they now want to take things to the next level. Not that they have been slouching since 2014: their products can be bought online from Big Barn, an online marketplace for small producers and farmers, and at West Green Fruit Farm, producing jam from fruit grown there for a couple of years which is sold in the PYO.
What I really like is that Sue and Kevin pick a lot of the fruit they use for their jams themselves from their own allotment, garden, farms, friends’ gardens and contacts, many of whom are now customers. This is a sustainable model, which also takes advantage of fruit grown that would not otherwise be harvested. In addition, they know exactly where their fruit comes from and that it’s local (apart from Seville oranges and lemon for marmalade).
In January of this year, Sue submitted her PhD, but the couple also became carers for grandchildren and decided to fit the jam business around this, shelving previous careers. So, whilst slowly building up their business over the past few years, they now want to take things to the next level. Not that they have been slouching since 2014: their products can be bought online from Big Barn, an online marketplace for small producers and farmers, and at West Green Fruit Farm, producing jam from fruit grown there for a couple of years which is sold in the PYO.
What I really like is that Sue and Kevin pick a lot of the fruit they use for their jams themselves from their own allotment, garden, farms, friends’ gardens and contacts, many of whom are now customers. This is a sustainable model, which also takes advantage of fruit grown that would not otherwise be harvested. In addition, they know exactly where their fruit comes from and that it’s local (apart from Seville oranges and lemon for marmalade).
Fresh raspberry and almond tart
This is a recipe I use a lot with different fruit, such as figs, pears and blueberries, as it is so versatile. The tart recipe works well with really fruity jam and it’s worth using an extra jam with at least 45% fruit content. Once the basic recipe is sorted, add flaked almonds or chopped pistachios on top. It’s really quick to make, especially with ready-made pastry. Individual tarts work well here too: just cut down the cooking time. Perfect for summer picnics and al fresco eating.Ingredients (serves 6)
One pack sweet short-crust pastry
100g butter, softened
100g vanilla-infused caster sugar
Three medium eggs
100g ground almonds
50g self-raising flour (gluten-free works well here)
Three tablespoons Jam Packed Preserves’ raspberry jam
200g fresh raspberries
Method
• Preheat the oven to 170 degrees centigrade/gas mark 5.
• Roll out the pastry thinly and line a 20–24cm flan tin. Cover with film and place in the fridge to rest for 30 minutes.
• Now beat the butter and sugar together with an electric whisk or stand mixer for about four minutes until pale. Slowly beat in the eggs, almonds and flour until combined.
• Remove the pastry case from the fridge and spread the base with the raspberry jam. Spoon in the almond mixture, spread evenly, and then scatter with the raspberries, pressing some gently into the mixture.
• Bake the tart on the baking sheet for 35–40 minutes, until golden brown. Cover with foil if it browns too quickly.
• Serve warm or cool with a dollop of thick cream or Greek style yogurt.
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Provenance and sustainability are all good market hooks, but what about taste? All food retailers love products with a long shelf life and that’s exactly what you get with this style of preserving.
Consequently, it’s also why lots of producers enter the market and why farm shops are stacked high with jars of curious and better-known concoctions. Interestingly, when I went to visit Jam Packed, I was thinking ‘not another jam producer’, but I was pleasantly surprised. Here is why it is different.
In addition to the usual jams (such as raspberry and blackcurrant), Jam Packed also produce a range of jams from hybrid fruits such as tummel berries (similar to ay berries) and chuckleberries (a cross between a redcurrant and a gooseberry) giving this particular jam an interesting texture. Adding silvanberries, boysenberries and loganberries to the mix and I start to get very interested.
We carried out a tasting session and all these jams, as the company name suggests, are made with a high fruit to sugar ratio so stand out with fiercely fruity flavours, each with its own personality. Jam Packed also makes a range of marmalades (all with hand cut peel) and Seville orange jelly. The jelly looks as glorious as it tastes, and I have my fingers crossed that one might come home with me (it does) as I can imagine it immediately as a glaze on duck breast, or as part of a chocolate and orange mousse.
Kevin has also become a master of chilli-based jams, jellies and chutneys, recognised in The Chutney Awards. Jam Packed has, for a small artisan producer, a great range of seasonal products, some of which are traditional and others more contemporary in style. Recently added lines include Naga Chilli jam and chutney made with real ale from Surrey Brewery Hog’s Back.
To sample their products, Jam Packed has a list of stockists on its new website, an online shop for retailers and for sale direct to the public. Sue and Kevin are also happy to attend ‘meet the producer’ events and tastings to share their handcrafted products. For fans of the local food movement, look out for this brand as it really is hand stirred in Surrey.
Shirlee Posner
Consequently, it’s also why lots of producers enter the market and why farm shops are stacked high with jars of curious and better-known concoctions. Interestingly, when I went to visit Jam Packed, I was thinking ‘not another jam producer’, but I was pleasantly surprised. Here is why it is different.
In addition to the usual jams (such as raspberry and blackcurrant), Jam Packed also produce a range of jams from hybrid fruits such as tummel berries (similar to ay berries) and chuckleberries (a cross between a redcurrant and a gooseberry) giving this particular jam an interesting texture. Adding silvanberries, boysenberries and loganberries to the mix and I start to get very interested.
We carried out a tasting session and all these jams, as the company name suggests, are made with a high fruit to sugar ratio so stand out with fiercely fruity flavours, each with its own personality. Jam Packed also makes a range of marmalades (all with hand cut peel) and Seville orange jelly. The jelly looks as glorious as it tastes, and I have my fingers crossed that one might come home with me (it does) as I can imagine it immediately as a glaze on duck breast, or as part of a chocolate and orange mousse.
Kevin has also become a master of chilli-based jams, jellies and chutneys, recognised in The Chutney Awards. Jam Packed has, for a small artisan producer, a great range of seasonal products, some of which are traditional and others more contemporary in style. Recently added lines include Naga Chilli jam and chutney made with real ale from Surrey Brewery Hog’s Back.
To sample their products, Jam Packed has a list of stockists on its new website, an online shop for retailers and for sale direct to the public. Sue and Kevin are also happy to attend ‘meet the producer’ events and tastings to share their handcrafted products. For fans of the local food movement, look out for this brand as it really is hand stirred in Surrey.
Shirlee Posner
essence info
Jam Packed PreservesTelephone: 07941 932529
Website: jampackedpreserves.co.uk
Facebook: jampackedpreserves
Twitter: @JamPacked01
Website: www.eatsurrey.co