FOOD REVIEW
Surrey’s Premier Lifestyle Magazine

My month in food

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Stephanie Brookes, foodie expert and BBC Radio London contributor, offers her pick of an eating establishment for this month: NOPI, situated on Warwick Street, London.

As I navigate my way around London’s culinary scene, there’s always that one restaurant I return to time and again. It has a kind of gravitational pull which keeps me coming back, sometimes twice in two days! This is a rarity for me as my state is one of food fickleness, as I like to take advantage of the incredible variety of cuisine on offer here in London, yet there are some restaurants that just have a certain magic ingredient. NOPI, situated on Warwick Street, is such a place and a sanctuary from the hustle of nearby Regent Street.

NOPI will require very little introduction for its legendary owner, Yotam Ottolenghi, is the undisputed master of Middle Eastern cuisine, and along with head chef, Ramael Scully, has created a menu that highlights the freshest, seasonal ingredients, allowing vegetable dishes, in particular, to really shine through. They are the kind of dishes that could tempt even the most ardent meat-eater to convert. Yet, the meat dishes are also lovingly prepared, and perfectly complement their vegetable counterparts.

As you enter the restaurant it has what can only be described as a feeling of ‘light’, which is why the few tables by the beautiful large windows are much coveted. I would suggest making a reservation for this area of the restaurant, and the very helpful staff will certainly do their best to accommodate.

Now, the first thing on the agenda at NOPI is ordering one of its expertly mixed cocktails. For a restaurant rarely talked about for its drinks, it has a well-thought out cocktail menu that would impress even the most ardent connoisseur. If, like me, the more herbaceous cocktail is preferred, I would highly recommend the Coriander and Ginger Martini, made with fresh lime, vodka, ginger and baby coriander. The cocktail offers a fresh, clean start to proceedings which I feel for certain will lead to the ordering of a second swiftly after.
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NOPI interior
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If NOPI was to have a signature, it would be its bold, striking flavours that may or may not have been encountered before. Chefs take the simplest of ingredients, yet create the most sensational flavour combinations – the kind of which makes diners wonder how to possibly recreate at home. In terms of the actual eating, it’s all about tapas-style dishes which is not a concept I’ve ever been too comfortable with (I’m far too greedy), but at NOPI you really want the person you’re with to share in the experience with you. I suggest ordering at least three of the vegetable dishes, including the Roasted aubergine, tamarind yoghurt, pistachio and pickled lemon, which is my current favourite offering on the menu. The charred, slightly chewy outer later of the aubergine combined with the delicately spiced yoghurt, crunchy texture of the pistachios and the final burst of bright, zesty lemon is quite simply the only way ever to eat an aubergine. And not forgetting the Grilled Romano peppers, ricotta, tomatillo salsa and pineapple, as well as the highly moreish Crispy potato, dashi onions, truffle oil and pecorino. They’re the kind of dishes that starts the ‘we could actually be vegetarian’ conversation, if only there was someone to make these dishes for you every day.
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NOPI's Chickpea pancake
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The main dish of Twice-cooked baby chicken, lemon myrtle salt and chilli sauce, I was told (by the lady on the table next to me) was so delicious she had ordered a second serving for her and her daughter. The portion itself is clearly enough for two, but if dining in a larger group, I would suggest opting for the slightly more expensive Whole-cooked baby chicken. The coarse, aromatic salt further enhanced the crispy chicken skin, and the moist, tender flesh paired with the spicy, chilli sauce was promptly devoured. For the ultimate vegetarian plate, the Chickpea pancake, spiced peas, tomato and yuzu is a satisfying dish. The fluffy chickpea pancake acts as a foundation for the fresh salad, with sweet tomatoes and delicate citrus from the yuzu making for a vibrant plate, and perfect for these warm, summer months.

You may find yourself contemplating ordering the same plate again, and my advice is not to hesitate, or in any way feel that tinge of embarrassment for wanting more – that’s just what is to be expected at NOPI.
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essence info
To make a reservation, contact: NOPI
21-22 Warwick Street, London W1B 5NE
Websites: www.ottolenghi.co.uk and www.stephaniebrookes.com 
Telephone: 020 7494 9584
Email: contact@nopi-restaurant.com
Twitter: @stephbrookes