FOOD REVIEW
Surrey’s Premier Lifestyle Magazine
My month in food
m often asked: “Where is a great place to eat in London?” and of course, that doesn’t have a one-answer response. There are so many superb places to eat, and it also largely depends on budget and what kind of cuisine is sought. However, more often than not, I find myself coming back with the same answer: “You have to go to Balthazar!” and for very good reason.
In the last couple of years, I have visited Balthazar more than any other restaurant (including an impromptu visit last week) and I like to think
that each time it just gets better and better. Balthazar is open for breakfast right through to dinner, serving up its delicious and extensive French bistro-style cuisine.
Located in the heart of Covent Garden, just off the main Piazza, Balthazar is arguably one of London’s best restaurants. It first opened its doors to great fanfare in 2013, as the sister-restaurant to the renowned Balthazar in New York City. The new London restaurant was promptly lauded by critics and celebrities alike, eager to be seen at London’s hottest eatery. Four years later, what remains is a restaurant that has truly earned its earlier praise.
If enjoying a day in London, and without a reservation, the ever-courteous staff will endeavour to find a table, and if there is a short wait, it’s just an opportunity to enjoy a cocktail at the bar. That’s the thing about Balthazar, the atmosphere is part of its unique charm. It’s always busy, but never claustrophobic, the waiting staff are always charming, but never intrusive. You can sit at the bar in great company without knowing a single person. I have actually eaten alone on many occasions, and never once needed to reach for that book, or hide behind my phone. I come to Balthazar for the atmosphere and never want to miss a beat.
Once at the bar, however, visitors won’t be able to resist one of the superb cocktails. I’ve recently been going through a Peach Bellini phase (a little boring, I know) but when it’s made so well, and with fresh peach purée, there’s no reason not to enjoy this old favourite. I can also highly recommend the Gin Fizz for that clean, crisp taste which is a great way to cleanse the palette before the feasting begins.
If visiting Balthazar for the first time, at least one person at the table has to order Onion Soup Gratinée, which is worth a visit to the restaurant in itself. A bowl positively overflowing with an oozing, cheese topping that will instantly make fellow diners envious of the choice will be presented. The onions, pale and translucent, are beautifully soft, and the onion broth is rich and flavoursome. The combination of the onion soup with the salty cheese crust makes for the most unctuous, savoury mouthful. As I write this, it brings me back to the intense flavours of what must be one of the best soups in London. Actually, I think ‘soup’ doesn’t quite capture the magnificence of this dish – it has to be consumed to be fully understood.
Allow a short interval before the entrée arrives as the Onion Gratinée certainly does satisfy the appetite. I always have that little flutter of excitement, however, when the main event finally makes its entrance. The Lobster Spaghetti with roasted tomatoes, piment d’ Espelette and basil has been a regular on the menu and is a sight to behold as it’s presented. The lobster, meaty yet soft with its natural sweetness, combined with the fresh tomatoes and earthiness of the garlic, makes for a bowlful of spaghetti heaven.
If visiting Balthazar for the first time, at least one person at the table has to order Onion Soup Gratinée, which is worth a visit to the restaurant in itself. A bowl positively overflowing with an oozing, cheese topping that will instantly make fellow diners envious of the choice will be presented. The onions, pale and translucent, are beautifully soft, and the onion broth is rich and flavoursome. The combination of the onion soup with the salty cheese crust makes for the most unctuous, savoury mouthful. As I write this, it brings me back to the intense flavours of what must be one of the best soups in London. Actually, I think ‘soup’ doesn’t quite capture the magnificence of this dish – it has to be consumed to be fully understood.
Allow a short interval before the entrée arrives as the Onion Gratinée certainly does satisfy the appetite. I always have that little flutter of excitement, however, when the main event finally makes its entrance. The Lobster Spaghetti with roasted tomatoes, piment d’ Espelette and basil has been a regular on the menu and is a sight to behold as it’s presented. The lobster, meaty yet soft with its natural sweetness, combined with the fresh tomatoes and earthiness of the garlic, makes for a bowlful of spaghetti heaven.
Allow a short interval before the entrée arrives as the Onion Gratinée certainly does satisfy the appetite. I always have that little flutter of excitement, however, when the main event finally makes its entrance. The Lobster Spaghetti with roasted tomatoes, piment d’ Espelette and basil has been a regular on the menu and is a sight to behold as it’s presented. The lobster, meaty yet soft with its natural sweetness, combined with the fresh tomatoes and earthiness of the garlic, makes for a bowlful of spaghetti heaven.
For the finale, I always opt for something sweet, profiteroles usually being the winning choice, yet, still in a ‘savoury’ mood I eventually landed on the Assiette de Fromage. For me, it’s the perfect cheese plate for one, with a small but perfectly thought-out choice of blue, soft and hard cheese, served with freshly toasted bread and a side of fresh grapes and sweet raisins.
It’s not often that I linger at the table after the meal is complete, but with Balthazar it almost feels like a home away from home. I just never want to leave. By the time this column is in print I’m almost certain I would have visited again. For my top London restaurant recommendation, this love letter is all the answer needed…
For the finale, I always opt for something sweet, profiteroles usually being the winning choice, yet, still in a ‘savoury’ mood I eventually landed on the Assiette de Fromage. For me, it’s the perfect cheese plate for one, with a small but perfectly thought-out choice of blue, soft and hard cheese, served with freshly toasted bread and a side of fresh grapes and sweet raisins.
It’s not often that I linger at the table after the meal is complete, but with Balthazar it almost feels like a home away from home. I just never want to leave. By the time this column is in print I’m almost certain I would have visited again. For my top London restaurant recommendation, this love letter is all the answer needed…
