RESTAURANT REVIEW
Surrey’s Premier Lifestyle Magazine

Clocking up a star

Serina Drake and team have reinvigorated a culinary delight on Ripley High Street. Imaginative food creations from chef Fred Clapperton, a friendly restaurant manager in Joseph Pocceschi and welcoming surroundings combine to make an exceptional dining experience at The Clock House. Andrew Peters takes the journey.
All images copyright The Clock House Restaurant
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The Clock House Restaurant (formerly Drake’s) on Ripley High Street has recently been awarded a Michelin star, an accolade that carries on a tradition. Drake’s was always on the gastronomic map as one of the most exciting establishments to visit in Surrey and so now is The Clock House.

It’s been a few years since I was last there, but seemingly nothing much has changed, apart from the name and new chef, Fred Clapperton, who has risen from the ranks to take over the top job.

Getting soaked by a very heavy and untimely shower walking the 200 yards from the car to the restaurant’s Georgian entrance, my dining companion and I dripped through the door. The smiling and helpful restaurant manager, Joseph, tended us, checked the reservation and with minimal fuss directed us to the cosy bar to dry off.

We both opted for the tasting menu and in doing so allowed some time as there are seven courses to negotiate.
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The menu (there is a vegetarian option) consisted of seven exquisite courses filled with inventions to excite any dormant taste buds. My companion is pescatarian and this posed no problems at all, with the menu being suitably amended.
I have to say, for me, she did miss the star of the show, the aged beef was quite extraordinary. I’m not a great meat eater myself, but this sumptuous effort would sway many non-believers. I could have dined on that alone, it simply fell apart on touch, and the flavour was wondrous.

The best sweet? Well, the pre-dessert was astounding, it could have been the dessert. This Thai basil, cucumber and lime taste bud tingler had intense flavours, belying the delicate nature of its composition.

All dishes were beautifully cooked, presented and served with perfect timing as Joseph explained each course with the thorough knowledge of a professional and the enthusiasm of one who loves food.
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The Clock House Restaurant: Autumn tasting menu sampled
Broccoli, Ox Tail, Yorkshire Blue, Walnut
Beetroot, goat cheese, fig, hazelnut*
Pork Belly, Apple, Celeriac, Alexanders
Turbot, (Chicken)*, Turnip, Miso, Penny Bun
Beef, Sweetbread, Kohlrabi, Horn of plenty
Sea trout, oyster, cabbage, dill*
Thai basil, cucumber, lime
Medjool dates, walnut, caramel
Blackberry, Hibiscus, Apples, Shortbread

£75 per person/£55 for lunch per person
Wine Flight available for £50
*pescatarian option
Seven courses may suggest some sort of Victorian blow out, but portions are balanced to provide the perfect relaxed lunch. Having said that, we both had to balk at the coffee and petit fours, which happily found their way into a container.
Almost three hours later, we both agreed it would have been tempting to stay all afternoon and perhaps work through the wine list... Unfortunately, we were both driving and duty called. As we made our way out under Joseph’s courteous guidance, the door of The Clock House opened and a gust of cool, rain-filled air welcomed us back to reality.

The Clock House Restaurant resides centrally in Ripley and has carried on where Drakes left off, remaining close to the centre of culinary creativity in Surrey. Was there a difference? Hard to put your finger on it really, but the décor is fresher and as a whole it’s even more pleasant and relaxing. Well worth a visit to escape the hubbub of everyday life and deserving of its Michelin star.
essence info
The Clock House Restaurant was formerly known as Drake’s, which held a Michelin star for more than a decade, but changed its name in January this year. Fred Clapperton took over as head chef in September 2016. The Clock House, High Street, Ripley, Surrey GU23 6AQ Open Wednesday to Saturday for lunch from 12 (noon) and for dinner from 7pm.
Telephone: 01483 224777
Website: www.theclockhouserestaurant.co.uk

“To have been awarded a star by the Michelin Guide within a year of Fred Clapperton, our head chef, taking over at the stove, is fabulous news. Our three AA Rosettes were reinstated within weeks of our change of head chef – and that was a great signal that we were on track. This latest accolade is the icing on the cake, so to speak!”
Serina Drake, proprietor